Our writer, Meghan Hilliard, went backstage at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week’s New York Spring/Summer 2012 Shows and previewed the make-up looks for the season. See Web-exclusive highlights from the shows below. For more fashion week coverage, read Issue 93 of Make-Up Artist, on sale now.

Make-Up Artist magazine coverage of NY Fashion Week 2012: Gretchen Jones show
Gretchen Jones show

Designer: Gretchen Jones
Time/Date: 3 p.m. Sept. 8
Location: Drive In Studios
Key Make-up Artist: Kristi Matamoros for Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics

Inspiration: A young girl on the run, exaggerated rawness

Details: Face was primed with moisturizer and spot-concealed; foundation and powder were not used. OCC Skin Airbrush Makeup in Pris was patted onto cheekbones and down the bridge of the nose by hand for a highlighting effect, while eyes and cheeks were left completely bare. Brows were slightly groomed and filled in. OCC Lip Tar in Demure was precisely applied with a lip brush. The lip was set with OCC Loose Colour Concentrate in Cherry Bomb to tone down the gloss but amplify the color. “We want this girl to look like the most she’s doing is throwing on a bright pink lip, and then she’s out the door,” said Matamoros.

Make-Up Artist magazine coverage of NY Fashion Week 2012: Bess show
Bess show

Designer: Bess
Time/Date: 3 p.m. Sept. 8
Location: 292 Lafayette Street
Key Make-up Artist: Emily Ansel for Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics

Inspiration: Japanese pop culture

Details: On women and men, foundation was applied only where needed. OCC Lip Tar in Trollop was applied to the cheeks using a blush brush, with color concentrated on the apples of the cheeks for a baby-doll effect. Female models received false eyelashes in various colors for a cartoon feel. OCC Lip Tar in Trick was used on the lips for a moist, nude look. On the men, Ansel mixed OCC Lip Tar in Clear with various OCC Loose Colour Concentrates to create colorful vertical lines down the center of their foreheads. Ansel patted OCC Cosmetic Glitter in Gold into those lines with a medium flat brush to add sparkle.

Make-Up Artist magazine coverage of NY Fashion Week 2012: Yigal Azrouel show
Yigal Azrouel show

Designer: Yigal Azrouël
Time/Date: 1:45 p.m. Sept. 9
Location: Highline Stages
Key Make-up Artist: Lucia Pica for M.A.C.

Inspiration: Sophisticated and glamorous without looking too made-up

Details: This monochromatic look featured terracotta and bronze emphasizing the eyes and cheekbones. M.A.C. Eye Shadow in Cup of Joe (working name, available spring/summer 2012) was used on the eyelids with M.A.C. Cream Colour Base in Improper Copper in the crease; M.A.C. Brow Set in Clear was used on the lashes and eyes were lined with M.A.C. Eye Kohl in Costa Riche on the waterline. Cup of Joe and M.A.C. Lip Erase in Pale were used on cheekbones to “create a plastic skin feel.” Pica gave the models a creamy foundation. “We wanted them to look very ‘wow’ and effective without the heavy lashes and lips,” Pica said. “They’re still going to look very impressive and strong.”

Make-Up Artist magazine coverage of NY Fashion Week 2012: Doo.Ri show
Doo.Ri show

Designer: Doo.Ri
Time/Date: 2:45 p.m. Sept. 9
Location: Eyebeam
Key Make-up Artist: Tom Pecheux for M.A.C.

Inspiration: Glowing goddess created with use of texture

Details: Pecheux focused on a neutral palette and a range of matte and metallic textures to complement Doo.Ri’s collection of colorful patterns and prints. M.A.C. Metal-X Eye Shadow in Fusion Gold (available Dec. 26-Jan. 29) was used on both the skin and the eyes. The product was applied to the entire lid up to the brow bone and into the eyebrow. A matte peach color was used as a contour with Fusion Gold as a highlight on the cheekbone and buffed into the temples. The lips were nude, using M.A.C. Lipstick in Innocence Beware! (available spring/summer 2012). The artists skipped mascara. “Not because I wanted to be lazy,” Pecheux said, laughing. “We just wanted [the models] to look like goddesses.”

Make-Up Artist magazine coverage of NY Fashion Week 2012: Kati Stern Venexiana show
Kati Stern Venexiana show

Designer: Kati Stern Venexiana
Time/Date: 9 p.m. Sept. 10
Location: The Studio at Lincoln Center
Key Make-up Artist: DeShawn Hatcher for Becca Cosmetics

Inspiration: ’20s-’30s retro vibe mixed with 2012

Details: Becca Resurfacing Primer was applied to the T-zone, followed by concealer where needed and Becca Mineral Powder Foundation over the entire face. Eyes were “semi-smoky” using the darkest shades from Becca eye-shadow palettes in Lost Weekend and Prairie Moon on the outer corner of the eyes only. Spiky lashes were used on the top and bottom lash lines, and eyes were lined in black. Becca Lip & Cheek Crème in Petal was applied to the apples of the cheeks for a wash of coral color. Petal was also dabbed onto the center of the lips along with Becca Glossy Lip Tint in Frappe.

Make-Up Artist magazine coverage of NY Fashion Week 2012: Sophie Theallet show
Sophie Theallet show

Designer: Sophie Theallet
Time/Date: 5 p.m. Sept. 13
Place: Milk Studios
Key Make-up Artist: Tom Pecheux for M.A.C.

Inspiration: French actress Romy Schneider in the 1969 movie La piscine (The Swimming Pool).

Details: Foundation and concealer were applied with a fluffy brush and set with M.A.C. Prep + Prime Transparent Finishing Powder. M.A.C. Mineralize Skinfinish Natural Bronzer in Give Me Sun! was applied heavily to the high points of the face and a slight dab of tinted body oil (currently being tested for a potential spring/summer 2012 launch) was added to the cheekbones to intensify the golden look. The eyes were colored a deep metallic copper by blending M.A.C. Extra Dimension Eye Shadow in Havana and Sweet Heat (available spring/summer 2012) with M.A.C. Metal-X in Venetian Tarnish. Dark-brown liner applied to the entire top and bottom lash lines and M.A.C. Zoom Lash in Zoomblack completed the eyes. Lips were covered in M.A.C. Tendertone Lip Balm SPF 12 in Hush Hush (available in spring/summer 2012).

Make-Up Artist magazine coverage of NY Fashion Week 2012: Richie Rich
Richie Rich

Designer: Richie Rich

Time/Date: 10 p.m. Sept. 11
Location: SL Lounge
Key Make-up Artist: Michele Carrillo for Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics

Inspiration: Glam Rock with an industrial vibe

Details: Eyes are the focus of this look with rough, disheveled brows. Lids were prepped with OCC Primer mixed with OCC Loose Colour Concentrate in Ironic for a metallic-silver cream base and OCC Loose Colour Concentrate in Distortion was placed on top from the lash line through the crease and underneath the eye for a smoky look. OCC Cosmetic Glitter in Mirrorball finished the look. Nine silver crystals were applied randomly around the left eye to create a subtle half-mask. Black mascara was applied heavily to top lashes. Skin was simple with light foundation and concealer where needed; cheeks were contoured for depth. OCC Lip Tar in Interlace was used on the lip.