The natural, minimalist make-up that flooded last season’s runways was nowhere to be seen at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014 New York. “Bold” was the word most often used to describe beauty looks backstage. From bushy, brushed-up eyebrows to sharply contoured cheeks, key make-up artists were upping the drama.
There was also a retro feeling in the air at NYFW, with beauty trends from the 1960s making a strong comeback. Key make-up artists were glued to their liquid eye liner; the deconstructed cat eye was trending throughout the week. But eyes weren’t the only played-up features: a berry- colored lip with a hint of gloss was the most popular pout at Lincoln Center. Read on to see the fall/winter looks favored by make-up artists and designers alike.
Time/Date: 9 a.m. Feb. 8, 2014
Location: The Pavilion at Lincoln Center
Key Make-up Artist: James Kaliardos
Inspiration: 1980s Upper East Side luxury
Details: Backstage at Ruffian, the make-up was a throwback to 1980s Fifth Avenue extravagance: bold lips, smoky eyes and contoured cheeks. After all, the decade wasn’t known for its simplicity.
“This is a ’80s luxury girl from the Upper East Side. She’s rich and she’s having fun and she wants everyone to know it,” said James Kaliardos’ assistant, Cher Webb.
Kaliardos created a smoky eye by applying Cream Colour Base in Dusk to the lid, along with Eye Shadow in new shade Stony. Eye Shadow in Brun was pressed into the crease and swept under the eye, while Electric Cool eye shadow in Pure Flash (from a fall 2012 collection) was concentrated on the inner corner and swept across lid. A thin line of Technakohl Liner in new shade Evil Twin was applied to the top lash line for definition, with Haute & Naughty Lash mascara applied to top and bottom lashes. The result: a not-too-perfect, rounded smoky eye.
“A [rounded] smoky eye makes it look doe-eyed, almost sleepy, in a good way,” said Webb.
To get a contoured look, Pro Sculpting Cream was pressed on cheekbones with fingertips, while Sheertone Shimmer Blush in Flirt & Tease was swept upward. (This shade is no longer available, but M.A.C. recommends Powder Blush in Plum Foolery as a comparable alternative.) Lip Pencil in Burgundy was used to define and fill in lips, and Crushed Cranberry (from the Fall ’14 Trend Forecast Lip Palette) was applied at the center of the lip.
Backstage Insight: Kaliardos took inspiration from retro Estée Lauder ad campaigns from the late ’70s and early ’80s.
Time/Date: 1 p.m. Feb. 8, 2014
Location: Center 548
Key Make-up Artist: Sil Bruinsma
Inspiration: Androgynous, grungy; David Lynch’s Twin Peaks
Details: “For the last couple of seasons the emphasis has been on the eyes, but this time [Rebecca Taylor] decided the focus should be on the lips,” said key make-up artist Sil Bruinsma, who created a bold, berry-stained lip by layering M.A.C.’s new colors Gigolo and Hearts a Flame (coming fall 2014). Cotton swabs were used to fade out the edges and soften the look.
Bruinsma kept the rest of the look muted, almost bare: The skin was left clean, except for Pro Longwear Concealer, applied where necessary. Brows were combed up for a bushy, boyish finish and mascara was skipped, while a hint of gloss was pressed onto the eyelid.
Backstage Insight: For a long-lasting lip color, Bruinsma suggested using a tissue and powder. “For a really strong, matte lip, draw the lip, fill it in with lipstick and take one ply of tissue paper, hold that in front of your lips and dust a little bit of loose powder on it.”
Time/Date: 4 p.m. Feb. 8, 2014
Location: Eyebeam Atelier
Key Make-up Artist: Polly Osmond
Inspiration: Christian Siriano based his collection on photos of supermodel Lisa Fonssagrives in 1950’s and ’60s Paris.
Details: It was all about the cat eyes backstage at Christian Siriano, but key make-up artist Polly Osmond was quick to point out she didn’t want to create a cookie-cutter ’60s girl but instead a messy, deconstructed mod look.
“We’re using lots of black eye make-up: winging it and then smudging it and then re-doing,” Osmond said.
Fluidline in Blacktrack was applied with a 210 Precise Eye Liner Brush on the top lash line, while Eye Kohl in Smolder was used on the waterline. Eyelashes were curled and a generous coating of M.A.C.’s Mascara Mineralize (available fall/winter 2014) was applied.
With such dramatic eyes, Osmond wanted to keep the rest of the look simple. Sculpting Powder in Sculpt and Shape Blush in Taupe were used to contour cheeks. Lipstick in Blankety was used over concealer to create a nude lip.
Backstage Insight: “Rather than making [the make-up] very womanly, which is what it would look like if we did the whole 1960s look, we’re slightly deconstructing it to make it a little more lived in and rough—a little bit cooler,” Osmond said.
Time/Date: 9 p.m. Feb. 8, 2014
Location: The Pavilion at Lincoln Center
Make-up: Supplied by Alcone
Key Make-up Artist: Dani Fonseca
Inspiration: 1930s film noir
Details: Venexiana is known for putting on a dazzling show: glamorous evening gowns, rock ‘n’ roll runway music and dramatic make-up.
This year, key make-up artist Dani Fonseca carried on the dramatic make-up tradition by creating a dark, vampy lip as the focal point of the look.
“[Designer] Kati Stern is usually someone who doesn’t even like anything on the lips, so I pushed her. I said, ‘Look, if you’re going to do a 1930s film noir it’s all about the lip, so you have to incorporate this dark lip.’”
To get the perfect lip, Fonseca applied Ben Nye Lipstick in Black with a coat of Alcone Lip Gloss in Joy.
The eyes were dusted a golden shade with a hint of burgundy in the crease using Alcone Perfect Eyeshadow in 3, 6, 9, 16, 23 and 31. Ben Nye Lip Colour Pencil in Vino was applied on the top and lower lash line. Fonseca finished off the look by applying Kett Fixx Creme Blush in colors that complemented the models’ skin.
Backstage Insight: “If you want more room to play with eye shadow, sometimes you take away the intensity of the eyebrow so you have more concentration of the eye shadow,” Fonseca said. To get the look, Fonseca used a warm-tone cream foundation to lighten the brow, which allowed the gold eye shadow to pop.
Time/Date: 11 a.m. Feb. 9, 2014
Location: 250 West 55th St.
Key Make-up Artist: Monica Marmo
Inspiration: The future of the romantic woman
Details: At 9 a.m., high above the frozen streets of Midtown Manhattan on the 37th floor of an unfinished office building, a team of hairstylists and make-up artists were working intensely backstage at Delpozo. The space was bright and untouched, perfectly mimicking the minimal make-up.
“It’s fresh make-up,” said key make-up artist Monica Marmo. “The woman is like a kid.”
To get this natural look, Marmo prepped skin with Mineralize Charged Water Face and Body Lotion and dusted Prep + Prime Transparent Finishing Powder across the face. Crushed Cranberry lipstick (part of the Fall ’14 Trend Forecast Lip Palette) was tapped vertically onto the cheekbones. Clear Lipglass was applied to the eyelids for a plastic effect. Mascara was skipped and lips left bare.
Backstage Insight: “It is [about] the fresh beauty of the woman, like fresh flowers in the morning,” Marmo said.
Love by Diego Binetti
Time/Date: 11 a.m. Feb. 9, 2014
Location: Designer’s Loft Studio
Make-up: Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics
Key Make-up Artist: Daria Debiak
Inspiration: Classic rock ‘n’ roll girl
Details: “This is lived-in make-up,” said key make-up artist Daria Debiak. “She’s cool and a little rock ‘n’ roll.”
Debiak created a modern, metallic smoky eye by applying Crème Colour Concentrate in Ripley (available fall 2014) to the eyelid and lining eyes with Cosmetic Colour Pencil in Tarred.
For a contoured look, Crème Colour Concentrate in John Doe was applied to cheeks. Lip Tar: Matte in Lament (fall 2014) and Crème Colour Concentrate in Engineer (fall 2014) were mixed together and painted on for a grayed, iridescent lip.
Backstage Insight: “One of my favorite things about the look is the lip: it’s a nude lip, but it’s way cooler than your mom’s nude lip—it’s next-generation nude lip,” Debiak said.
Time/Date: 4 p.m. Feb. 9, 2014
Key Make-up Artist: Romero Jennings
Inspiration: The work of Mexican artist Gabriel Orozco
Details: The look was polished grunge backstage at Rolando Santana. Key make-up artist Romero Jennings used Fluidline in Blacktrack and Eye Shadow in Carbon to create a blown-out smoky eye.
“I decided to do a new take on a smoky eye, which is basically pulling the eye out so it has some structure,” Jennings said. “I’m thinking about you guys watching the show, looking at the models from the side. It’s going to look like she’s running.”
For a fun pop, Jennings added a drop of M.A.C.’s new 3-D Glitter (coming fall 2014) at the center of the eye.
“It’s barely there,” explained Jennings. “When she blinks, you get this beautiful sparkle from the lights out there.”
Cheeks were contoured with Pro Sculpting Cream in Coffee Walnut, while a mixture of Cream Colour Base in Luna and Pearl highlighted the high planes of the cheekbones. Lipstick in Siss was applied with a coat of Obviously Bare Lip Gloss (fall 2014) to finish off the look.
Backstage Insight: “The lips are a take on that ’90s gray, taupe lip that everyone was wearing. It was beige and not attractive, but it was in style. What I’ve done this time, to make it approachable, I’m using Obviously Bare Lip Gloss.” Jennings said.